Use coarse sandpaper to remove stubborn paint, but choose the grit based on the paint condition and the surface underneath. Here is a practical grit progression for wood, metal, and painted walls.
Use 60- to 80-grit sandpaper to remove thick, peeling, or stubborn old paint from most wood surfaces. Start with the least aggressive grit that removes the coating efficiently: 80 grit for general stripping, 60 grit for heavier buildup, and 100 to 120 grit when the paint is already loose or you are working over a softer surface.
The goal is to remove the old paint without cutting deeply into the wood, drywall, or metal underneath. After stripping, move to a finer grit to smooth scratches before applying primer or new paint.
Choosing a grit for old paint
Paint condition
Starting grit
When to use it
Loose, peeling, or thin paint
100–120
Removes remaining paint with less risk of gouging
Typical painted wood
80
Good starting point for most hand-sanding and power-sanding
Thick or multiple paint layers
60–80
Cuts through buildup more quickly
Very stubborn coating or hard metal
40–60
Use carefully; aggressive and more likely to scratch
Final smoothing after stripping
120–180
Blends scratches before primer or finish
Avoid beginning with extremely coarse paper unless the coating is unusually thick and the substrate can tolerate deep scratches. A lower grit number cuts faster, but it also removes more material and leaves deeper marks.
Best grit by surface
Painted wood
Start with 80 grit for most painted wood. If the paint is peeling or already scraped off in places, 100 or 120 grit may be enough. Use 60 grit only for thick layers or hard finishes, and keep the sander moving to reduce the chance of dips and gouges.
Once the paint is removed, switch to 120 grit, then use 150 or 180 grit if the surface will receive a smooth painted or clear finish. Do not sand aggressively across soft wood, thin veneer, or rounded edges.
Painted metal
For metal, begin with 80 to 120 grit when removing ordinary paint. Use 40 to 60 grit only when the coating is thick, hard, or heavily rusted and the metal can tolerate visible scratches.
After stripping, move to 120 to 180 grit to reduce coarse sanding marks. If the metal has rust, pitting, or flaking beneath the paint, sanding may not restore a smooth surface by itself. Apply the appropriate metal primer according to the coating manufacturer's instructions.
Painted drywall or plaster
Sandpaper is usually not the best first tool for removing intact paint from drywall. Coarse sanding can damage the paper facing, create low spots, and spread dust throughout the room. Scrape loose paint first, repair damaged areas, and use 120 to 180 grit mainly to smooth edges and joint-compound repairs.
If the paint is firmly bonded, it may be better to clean, dull, and prime the surface rather than remove every layer. For older homes, follow applicable lead-paint precautions before disturbing painted surfaces.
Painted furniture or cabinets
Begin with 100 to 120 grit if you only need to remove loose paint or roughen the surface. Use 80 grit for thicker coatings, then progress to 120 or 150 grit after stripping.
Furniture often has veneer, shaped edges, and thin details that are easy to damage. A sanding sponge or sanding block can provide better control than a power sander around profiles and corners.
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A practical sanding progression
For a typical painted wood project, use this sequence:
Scrape loose paint with a hand scraper where practical.
Start with 80 grit to remove the remaining coating.
Change to 120 grit to even out the surface and remove coarse scratches.
Finish with 150 to 180 grit if the surface will be painted smoothly or clear-coated.
Remove dust before priming.
You may not need every step. If 120 grit removes the paint without excessive effort, there is no reason to start with 60 or 80 grit. Conversely, if fine paper clogs quickly and barely cuts the coating, move down one grit level rather than pressing harder.
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Sandpaper type and format matter
The grit number is only part of the choice. The format should match the tool and the shape of the workpiece:
Sheets: Useful for hand-sanding flat areas and cutting into smaller pieces.
Sanding blocks: Keep pressure more even on flat surfaces and reduce finger grooves.
Sanding sponges: Better for trim, profiles, corners, and slightly curved surfaces.
Random-orbit sanding discs: Efficient for broad wood surfaces when used with the correct backing pad and dust collection.
Detail-sander sheets or discs: Helpful for corners and narrow areas, but they can remove material quickly at the tip.
Choose paper labeled for the material and tool when possible. Abrasives designed for wood may load differently on old paint or metal, and hook-and-loop or pressure-sensitive formats must match the sanding tool.
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How to avoid common stripping mistakes
Do not press harder when the paper stops cutting
Paint dust and softened coating can clog the abrasive. Replace or clean the paper, improve dust extraction, or use a coarser grit. Excessive pressure can overheat the abrasive and create uneven areas.
Keep the tool moving
A power sander can remove a surprising amount of wood at corners, edges, and soft spots. Use light pressure and keep the pad flat. Hand-sand detailed areas rather than forcing a large sander into them.
Check the surface often
Stop every few passes and inspect the work. You do not always need to expose bare wood or bare metal across the entire surface. Removing loose coating and creating a sound, paintable surface may be sufficient.
Be cautious with old paint
Sanding can produce hazardous dust, especially when the age or composition of the paint is unknown. Follow local requirements and product instructions, use suitable eye and respiratory protection, control dust with ventilation or a compatible vacuum, and consider professional lead-paint guidance for older coatings. Do not dry-sand questionable paint without taking appropriate precautions.
When sanding is not the right stripping method
Sanding may be inefficient for several thick paint layers, soft paint that clogs abrasives, or large surfaces. In those cases, scraping, a suitable chemical stripper, or another approved method may reduce dust and effort. Follow the stripper manufacturer's instructions and never combine chemicals.
If the substrate is thin veneer, damaged drywall, soft wood, or a delicate finish, preserving the surface may be more important than removing every trace of paint. A professional can help determine the safest approach when the coating or substrate is uncertain.
FAQ
Is 60 grit too coarse for removing paint?
It can be. 60 grit removes thick paint quickly but leaves deep scratches and can gouge wood or thin materials. Start with 80 grit for typical painted wood and move to 60 grit only when the coating is unusually thick or difficult to remove.
What grit should I use after stripping paint?
Use 120 grit to smooth the scratches left by coarse paper. For a smoother painted or clear-coated surface, follow with 150 or 180 grit if the material and finish instructions call for it.
Can I use 40 grit sandpaper to strip paint from wood?
You can, but it is aggressive and usually unnecessary for ordinary paint removal. It is more likely to gouge wood, damage veneer, and leave deep scratches, so try 60 or 80 grit first.
Should I remove all old paint before repainting?
Not always. Firmly bonded paint can often remain if you remove loose areas, smooth the edges, clean the surface, and use a compatible primer. Completely stripping the surface may be necessary when the old coating is failing, incompatible, or too uneven for the new finish.
